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SUBJECT: Does
a Traditional Brick Floor laid on Earth Lead to increased Damp
FROM: Rachel
Elliott (Sudbury, Suffolk)
I have recently bought a 16th century cottage and have started to make some renovations,
one of them being the removal of a 1940's fireplace. We also took up the hearth and
discovered under a concrete screed what we assume to be an original floor of Suffolk
yellow bricks. On removing the carpet we discovered damp which appears to have come
through the concrete. We started to remove the concrete very carefully with the intention
of cleaning the bricks and leaving them but I am now concerned about damp. The bricks
are set directly into the soil and I really do not know what to do for the best. If
we seal the bricks will it create a problem? Can we leave them set straight into the
ground? As half the floor has been uncovered I am in need of some help fairly quickly.
Rachel Elliott
Rachel, the problem you have described is common amongst many period
property owners. Years ago the idea of having a brick floor was perceived as antiquated
and unfashionable. This led to many traditional brick floors being covered with a thin
layer of concrete, followed by lino, then further in the future, carpet. Such a move
simply resulted in ground moisture being trapped beneath the concrete which then gradually
migrated to the property's walls instead of naturally evaporating through the joints
of the brickwork. In a timber framed property this would result in the decay of the
soleplate. The simplest solution is the remove all of the concrete, then let the floor
dry out, and experience first hand if the problem you have described with damp continues.
If the bricks are damaged or you find the unevenness of the floor a little tricky you
could attempt to lift the bricks and bed them in a new layer of lime mortar, but be
warned any attempt to lift the bricks is hazardous as they do tend to break when levered
from their lifelong resting place. I would also strongly advise you not to use any
waterproofing solution on the bricks or install a new concrete floor with dpc. Both
methods may result in an increase in the moisture levels in the surrounding walls and
increased dampness. Therefore, your first step is to expose the floor, repoint the
joints between the bricks with lime, then sit back and live with it before deciding
to seek further advice and undertaking any other expensive work which is more suited
to a modern property.
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SUBJECT: Frost
Damage to Bricks
FROM: Sarah
White (Durham)
We are in the process of purchasing a brick Edwardian house on a hillside in County Durham.
We have be told that the brick work has extensive frost damage and that we need to render
the walls. Is there anyway of protecting the brick without covering it up?
Sarah White
There are a number of issues here. Who told you that the bricks are
suffering frost damage? How extensive is the damage? What type of bricks are they? What
is the mortar mix? It may be that the bricks have suffered damage and are vulnerable.
However, to cover them up or to treat them inappropriately could cause more harm than
good. The problem should really be assessed by someone with local knowledge of bricks
used in the district, who will take a sensible sympathetic view. It may be that localised
repair and repointing will suffice. You may have to consider some form of protection,
which could take the form of a 'shelter coat' of limewash. The important thing to remember
is that to use anything that is in any way impervious or not properly breathable could
result in trapped moisture and an increase in frost damage, etc.
Period Property
UK would like to
thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen
Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 509 |
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SUBJECT: Waterproofing
Solution on Bricks may Cause Further Damage
FROM: Paul
Forman (Wokingham, Berkshire)
I live in a 1740's Grade II listed property - it needs minor repointing work on the house
and rather more on the high garden perimeter wall (which may need replacement red rubber
"battered" bricks) - I have also been advised to apply K501 masonry waterproofing solution
to the house walls to minimise water splash and ingress - have you had experience of this
as a product and are the results favourable?
Paul Forman
Whilst I personally do not know the product you mention this is primarily
because I have an aversion to using a modern 'treatment' to seal brick walls in old houses.
Most old brickwork is porous and is meant to be. More importantly, the mortar was originally
a lime based mix and the wall was 'breathable'. Moisture that penetrates the outer face
of the brick evaporates freely during wind or dry weather. The pointing tends to act as
the 'lung' of the building and should always be slightly softer than the brickwork. It
is the pointing that should be sacrificial not the brickwork! To 'treat' the walls goes
against the principle of breathability and usually causes more harm than good. If you
have a genuine problem of water ingress then look to see why, because the building would
not have had the problem originally. Most dampness problems can be traced back to changes
that have occurred or neglect of basic maintenance. Without seeing the brickwork I cannot
advise further, but I strongly advise against the use of a 'waterproofing solution', especially
on soft red bricks, as the medium to long term result will be damage to the brickwork.
Period Property
UK would like to
thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen
Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 509 |
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SUBJECT: Lower
External Ground Levels Helps Alleviate Damp
FROM: Richard
Goodyear (Isle Of Wight)
We have just bought a 300 yr. old cottage made out of Isle of Wight stone. On the outside
the ground level is higher than the inside level. I would like to dig it out to normal
ground level. Do you think its wise to do as my partner believes it may damage the stone
work. We also have damp on the inner wall.
Richard Goodyear
One of the most common causes of dampness in older buildings is that
the ground level is too high. Over the years the ground has been allowed to build up against
the wall. Ideally, the ground level should be at least 150mm below the internal floor
level. Without seeing the problem I cannot advise specifically, but it seems that the
most sensible and cheapest solution might be to simply excavate the high ground around
the bases of the walls. Make sure you do not undermine what footings/foundations might
exist (if any)! Rather than create a channel it is preferable to lower the ground for
some distance away from the building. However, if a channel has to be formed, make sure
it is well drained (do not back-fill it with shingle as this defeats the object of clearing
away the ground!). Exposing the base of the wall will allow moisture to evaporate lower
down, before it can get high enough to cause damage. Do not treat the walls with anything
other than traditional breathable finishes such as limewash. To function properly the
wall must be able to breathe.
Period Property
UK would like to
thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen
Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 509 |
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SUBJECT: Timber
Frame Advice
FROM: Michael
Westrop (Finchingfield, Essex)
We are about to purchase a particularly old house, in need of considerable renovation.
It was originally a hall house, possibly dating back to the thirteenth century. We are
quite well informed about timber framed buildings, but know less about properties this
old. Can you suggest sources of information and good advice?
Michael Westrop
Essex County Council have a Historic Buildings Department and they are
an excellent starting point. The Conservation Officers are friendly (usually!)and are
very knowledgeable. They also run regular courses at Cressing Temple. You could also contact
The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB), who have a technical adviser,
publish several leaflets and run occasional courses.
Period Property
UK would like to
thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen
Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 509 |
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SUBJECT: Removing
Pebbledash to Solve Dampness
FROM: Maureen
Wilkinson (Norwich, Norfolk)
There is damp in the back extension which houses the kitchen and a breakfast room. We
spent the summer chipping rotten plaster and cement render off the internal walls (which
we have left to breathe' behind the units), and filled three skips with concrete from
the adjacent back passage. While we were at it, we lowered the soil level there to expose
a couple of extra courses of brick. The outside is pebble-dashed. Would it help if we
hacked this off up to about 4ft and (assuming the bricks will look awful afterwards) tidied
things up with a lime render and lime-wash?
Maureen Wilkinson
The simple answer is yes because initially this will allow any trapped
moisture to escape and evaporate away, but you will eventually want to provide an appropriate
finish to the wall surface. Was the building always pebbledashed? If so, you may need
to investigate the precise form of pebbledash and look to re-forming it. Whether it was
or not, it is likely that the building had some form of protective covering. This could
have simply been limewash or a form of render. Lime is not as simple a product as many
would believe. There are many forms, some of which behave in a way not too dissimilar
to cement (but it is not the same as cement!!). We now know that our forefathers understood
these differences and used different forms of lime for different applications. Whether
you reform pebbledash or eventually hack off the pebbledash to form a different finish,
make sure you understand the product you are using and that it is appropriate for the
job in hand.
Period Property
UK would like to
thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen
Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 509 |
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SUBJECT: Once
Perfect Chimney Smokes us Out
FROM: Allegra
Amati (London)
WMy mother has an old cottage in Gloucestershire which used to be an inn. We have now
had the cottage for about 15 years and up until now, we have been able to have a gorgeous
roaring fire in the sitting room. However my mother had an exposed corner, repointed and
since then it has been impossible to light a fire ( the chimney is situated near to the
repointed corner of the house). Every time we light a fire, there is a good pull, but
smoke pours out into the room, making it impossible to stay there. We have had the fireplace
in the room directly above sealed and we have had expert after expert and chimney sweep
after chimney sweep in, and all to no avail. It remains a mystery and no one can understand
it. Have you ever heard of such a problem, or do you know of anyone? We are all missing
the cosy fires that we once had. Please help, a house isn't a home without a roaring fire.
Allegra Amati
Whether the repointing is associated with the other problems is the
first thing to establish. Did the room previously have draughts and the repointing has
cured this? If so, the problem could be related to a lack of air supply into the room.
If this is the case you may have to find some way of introducing a fresh air supply to
the hearth area. I assume the chimney has been swept and the flue generally checked? As
well as the normal 'hot air rises' principle, a chimney relies on a difference in air
pressure between the bottom and top, the bottom having a slightly higher pressure than
the top, hence the smoke rises up the chimney. When smoke pours down it is usually because
the pressure difference is insufficient. Sometimes it is necessary to bring the base of
the flue lower by installing a hood (this effectively lengthens the flue). I of course
assume we are talking about a large 'Inglenook' style fireplace. The Fireplace Association
should be able to advise, they used to publish a number of useful leaflets. In the first
instance see what happens if you open a window. If the fireplace then works it suggests
that you need to improve the fresh air supply to the hearth. If this does not work, or
you still get a problem, try installing a temporary hood (metal) to see if this works.
Period Property
UK would like to
thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen
Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 509 |
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SUBJECT: Woodworm
in Roof Timbers
FROM: Anita
Omatseone (Kildwick, Yorkshire)
I have recently purchased a Grade II listed cottage. A recent inspection of the roof space
has highlighted evidence of woodworm that looks to have eaten up to 1/2 of the thickness
of the supporting timbers. The wood is very soft and quite damp (due I expect to there
being no felt under the stone tiles). What action is required?
Anita Omatseone
I suspect that you need do nothing. You do not say if the timbers are
softwood or hardwood - this is very important! If softwood or some forms of hardwood,
the damage could be more serious than if the timber is Oak (very durable). Is the damage
recent or historic? If historic, there is no need to do anything, as the timbers have
stood the test of time with the damage. If recent, there must be a reason. You suggest
the timbers are damp, but why? Most historic roofs have no lining and this is usually
beneficial, as it allows good natural ventilation, and most overlapping roof coverings
have no need of a lining. You need advice from someone experienced in looking at historic
buildings, someone who will not be fazed by the sight of a few woodworm holes. From what
you say the worst-case scenario could be that the roof frame requires strengthening and
targeted treatment (of active infestation) needs to be undertaken at the same time. By
the way, the best time to undertake treatment is in the late Spring when the beetles are
active (mating season!). The strengthening of a historic roof would usually take the form
of inserting new timber alongside the original (not necessarily taking the original out).
If the problem is more serious, you will need to seek the advice of an engineer experienced
in dealing with historic structures. For major work, or sometimes even less major work
(depending upon its precise nature) you will need listed building consent. I suggest that
whatever solution is decided upon you speak with the Conservation Officer before any work
actually takes place.
Period Property
UK would like to
thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen
Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 509 |
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SUBJECT: Leaky
Chimney Flashing
FROM: Robert
Goodwin (Sandbach, Cheshire)
I have restored a Grade II listed farmhouse. Initially the builder used haunching round
the chimney when mending the roof. This did not keep the roof dry and one of the beams
and a large area of plaster was constantly damp/wet on the chimney column. The builder
was encouraged (by non payment) to replace this with lead flashing. Several months later
it is less damp but I believe some moisture is still getting through when it rains. Is
there a way of inspecting the space beneath the roof tiles where the chimney column meets
the roof without pulling down the old lath and plaster ceiling? Is this a service one
can hire?
Robert Goodwin
This sounds a bit tricky and potentially litigious. If you have had
the building restored you should not be getting a problem. Traditionally, roof to chimney
junctions were finished with a mortar 'haunching'. Nowadays we tend to prefer lead flashings.
However, if the mortar is properly finished (usually over a hidden metal soaker) there
is no reason why they should not work well. Whatever, if you are experiencing a problem
there must be somewhere the rain is getting in, even though you seem to now have lead
flashings. It could be through the chimney itself, the flaunching around the pots, the
pointing, a defective flashing joint, the roof tiles, the ridge. This requires careful
investigation. I would not recommend taking down an original ceiling, unless as a last
resort. Nevertheless, if there is a section of ceiling that could be used to form a loft
access point, this might then be useful for access now and in the future. It might be
sensible to have a small 'tower' scaffold erected or perhaps even hire a cherry-picker
for a day. This would enable close inspection of the roof and chimney areas. Ideally you
will need internal and external access to assess the precise cause of the ongoing problem.
However, external access alone might be sufficient. If the cause is defective workmanship,
you will need to have words with the builder - again! It seems that the best solution
would be to find an independent local surveyor or architect (someone who understands old
buildings) who can undertake the investigation properly and assist you, if necessary,
in dealing with the builder.
Period Property
UK would like to
thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen
Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 509 |
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SUBJECT: Flagstones
May Still Require Some Elbow Grease to Clean
FROM: Steven
Cenci (Chigwell, Essex)
We've recently moved into an old cottage with flagstone floors which are not original
but laid some 20 years ago. The problem is those in the kitchen are quite dirty, I suspect
from years of cleaning/wax products progressively trapping dirt. I've tried a little test
patch with Flash and wire wool and this works reasonably well but would be a huge job
to do all of it this way! Any suggestions for cleaning flagstones without damaging the
finish?
Steven Cenci
Before tackling the problem you must try to establish what has been
used in the past. If some form of sealant has been used it might be removable with appropriate
chemical systems (used with great care). Some 'household' cleaning products might remove
some forms of polish and/or wax. As you have already tried, you should experiment in discreet
areas to see what works best. There are various removal chemicals available. One company
specialising in removal of various finishes is Strippers. They have various franchise
operatives over the country. Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that the most effective
removal system will be easy!
Period Property
UK would like to
thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen
Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 509 |
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