Ask our Agony Uncles ...
You can write to our panel of experts free of charge on any subject, providing it's got something to do with Period Properties.
Our experts are all specialists in matters directly involved with older properties. So, if you have a problem with an older building - or if you think you might have a problem - ask an Agony Uncle...
SUBJECT: Lead
water pipes what should I do? Brian Anker Yes and no. It is true that limescale can build up within the pipe and this is providing a protective layer between the lead and the water. That said, if there is another metal in the system there could be a bi-metallic reaction that results in the limescale breaking down and the lead coming into contact with the water once again. There is always a risk of the lead being in contact with water and where it is practical and reasonable to do so one should look at having the lead pipes replaced. I say this purely for health reasons. However, what you should also bear in mind is that many of the main supply pipes to the houses will be lead. You can only replace the section on your property. The rest of the supply before that could have lead in it. This is a risk we all face and until all historic main supply pipes are eventually replaced across the country there is an ongoing risk (albeit minimal perhaps) of lead contamination to water supply to Victorian and Edwardian houses. One has to take pragmatic approach and in this instance I would suggest replacement of accessible lead pipework. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
||||
SUBJECT: Options
for ceiling repair in a period house Paul Cole It really depends on what you mean by best method of repair. There are three primary methods of forming ceilings in historic buildings. First and the one regarded as the most traditional is of course lath and plaster. The general rule would be that if you have a lath and plaster ceiling it should be repaired or replaced in a similar manner. However, this does depend upon the importance of the fabric itself or the ceiling in question. The next method is to use a modern expanded metal lath with a wet plaster system applied. This would generally be cheaper than lath and plaster and some conservation officers will accept it as a replacement for lath and plaster. The reason is that it is a wet system that will follow the contours and outlines of an existing ceiling. The final method is of course to use plasterboard. This is a dry system, which is quick and relatively cheap. It can be used where the ceiling is perfectly flat with no serious undulations, etc. However, it does result in a very clinical uniform finish unless of course the plasterer deliberately finishes the plaster to give an appearance of old plaster (although by this I do not necessarily mean hacienda style lumps!). If the ceiling is relatively unimportant, plain, etc. then the conservation officer might accept replacement with plasterboard particularly if it is perhaps vulnerable to a future leak and problems. However, if you are living in a more important building or the ceiling is particularly important then replacement with lath and plaster will have to be the first option. This is really a matter you need to discuss carefully with the conservation officer. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
||||
SUBJECT: What
does 'Townscape Merit' mean? Anita Elms The term 'Townscape merit' often appears on list entries. All it means
is that the person who recommended the building for inclusion on the list believed that
it was worth listing on the strength of its contribution to the townscape alone - for
example, as a building which forms an integral element of an important town square. It
does not mean that the building is any less protected than any other listed building,
and it is a criminal offence to make alterations to either the exterior or the interior
without permission (or 'listed building consent' as it is known). Period Property UK would like to thank Jonathan Taylor at www.buildingconservation.com |
||||
SUBJECT: Victorian
tiles need make over Angela Ragen Angela, please visit the information section of the site where you will find an article concerning the cleaning and restoration of encaustic floor tiles. The article is written by a company called Original Features who specialise in the restoration of Victorian and Edwardian tiled floors. I believe they can supply certain products via mail order. They can be contacted on 020 8348 5155 or visit www.originalfeatures.co.uk. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
||||
SUBJECT: How
do we remove paint from our Inglenook? Alison O'Neill Alison, many people mistakenly use sand blasting to remove paint from everything from exposed timbers to brickwork. Sometimes, if used by a skilled practitioner it can be successful but the preferred route is to use a poultice which will break the paint down so it can simply be removed by washing down with warm water. Contact Strippers of Sudbury on 01787 371 524 who will be able to advise you and supply a trial pack of the correct material to use. Believe us, if used correctly you will be amazed with the results. On the stone front any move to remove the plaster will aid the drying out of the fabric of the property which has resulted from the damp described. But, for a long term solution the external ground levels should be returned to their original level to prevent penetrative damp with a lime render applied internally enabling the stonework to breathe. Before lowering the external ground level seek advice from a surveyor who specialises in older properties to ensure the walls structural integrity have not been impaired.
|
||||
SUBJECT: Possible
simple solution to sagging historic ceiling Kate Tuck Kate, period home owners today are often faced by tradesman who neither have the experience or understanding of older properties to undertake work in a way which is sympathetic and in keeping with the original fabric of the building. Therefore, rather than use the most appropriate technique and materials to undertake a repair they simply pull down the original feature/materials and take the line of least resistance. In this case the removal of a historic ceiling - if your property is listed you will require listed building planning permission to remove the ceiling - and replacement with plasterboard. From your description it is clear that the ceiling requires repair rather than wholesale destruction. One particular technique which you could use to re-attach the plaster to the laths is by using small brass screws and brass or copper washers - made from metal sheeting. The washers and screws should be slightly recessed into the plaster and then covered once firmly fixed in place. If plaster has already fallen away from existing laths an experienced plaster or indeed yourself will be able to undertake patch repairs easily. This would involve the area to be patched being brushed to remove loose debris which may be loosely attached to the laths. Then using a scraper shape the remaining older plaster to a 45 degree angle. Dampen the old plaster using a water spray and apply the lime mix (1 part lime putty & three parts coarse sand) ensuring it is pushed firmly between the wood laths. Score the surface with a criss-cross pattern to provide a good key for the final coat. Once dried apply the final layer of lime (1 part lime and 3 parts soft sand). Leave until nearly dry before running over the surface to ensure it is smooth. |
||||
